A Jacob & Co. masterpiece in a limited series, based on Bugatti's performance cars. Its unusual design is a tribute to the Chiron Sport "110 years BUGATTI" limited series. The turquoise dial proudly displays the Bugatti logo, while the power reserve indicator has been renamed "Fuel". Only 39 pieces of this stunning timepiece will be produced and numbered.
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Graham Chronofighter Vintage GMT Watch Review
Those who are less familiar with the various timepiece models produced by Graham may not notice at first glance that the Graham Chronofighter Vintage GMT is a new watch. This isn’t Graham’s first “Chronofighter,” nor is it the first “Vintage,” nor is it the first “GMT.” Instead, it's a new model that combines a lot of what Graham has already done into a new, fairly satisfying package.
Most people even remotely familiar with Graham would probably mistake the Chronofighter Vintage GMT for the previously offered and I believe soon to be discontinued Chronofighter Oversize GMT aka Chronofighter GMT. The two watches have similar looks, the same functions (mostly), and even share the exact same movement. The biggest differences are size and price.
The "original" Chronofighter GMT comes in a 47mm wide case, while the "new" Chronofighter Vintage GMT comes in a more wear-resistant (for most people) 44mm wide case. The Chronofighter Vintage GMT also retails for thousands of dollars less than the Chronofighter GMT. Is the 3mm size enough to justify such a premium? of course not. Larger models aren't worth thousands more, either. The reality is that the Chronofighter GMT launch was probably an overpriced (rather than oversized) product, and with the Chronofighter Vintage GMT, Graham has simply become more realistic about product valuations.
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The Swiss Graham is one of those controversial “bold dandy watches” that I’ve always had a soft spot for. Opponents of the brand decried such watches as lacking sensuality, taste or elegance. I'm not sure I agree or care about the emotion. In fact, when it comes to luxury watches, I'm pretty sure most people, whether they act consciously or not, are not looking for "sensible". Instead, they're looking for the frills and something that makes a statement, which, if we want to be honest with ourselves, is one of the main reasons we love luxury timepieces.
Graham's character is a retro-style pilot-themed adventure toy that can be worn on your wrist. Many high-end men’s watches are essentially toys because we can play with them and they take us on an adventure that is not representative of our actual lives. A toy can be literally anything you use to make you feel like you're living a different life, even if just for a moment. The great thing about watches as toys is that they have a real history on the wrists of adventurers, such as pilots, and come with a visual theme that can potentially be exploited.
As such, Graham is a high-end toy watch brand for men that, like many other watch brands, unabashedly promotes fun. It's just that some brands propose a more elegant or gentler form of fun. With a name like “Chronofighter,” Graham wants you to always play out your more mature but still childish military fantasies when wearing this watch. If you can appreciate and respect watches as toys and know that you have something like this in your life, then this is the first step to appreciating watches.
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Graham is in the relatively crowded field of high-end men's sports watches, trying to help countless people realize their adventure fantasies. Why choose Graham instead of Breitling, IWC, Omega, Rolex, etc.? This is a good question. I think in a perfect world, most watch collectors would have at least a few watches from these brands in their arsenal.
Graham knew this wouldn't entice first-time Rolex buyers to buy the GMT-Master II they'd been eyeing for some time. Brands like Graham's are patiently waiting for first-time luxury watch buyers to become second, third, fourth, etc. watch buyers in the hope that they are looking for something a little more risky and risky than what they already own. Polarizing stuff. Understanding this is important to understanding some of the more subtle nuances of a watch brand's sales strategy (in some cases, I use the word "strategy" as lightly as possible).
Knowing this information may help you put into perspective the various bright and bold colors seen on many Graham timepieces. These watches are not only designed to attract the attention of watch buyers, but also strive to be items that the buyers wear peacocks to attract the attention of onlookers. The psychology of wanting others to notice and/or appreciate the watch on your wrist is a topic for another article entirely.
Graham currently produces four different color dials for the Chronofighter Vintage GMT. I think this reference 2CVBC.G01A is very nice in its quasi-British Racing Green (mixed with Forest Green) and metallic finishes. Even though the green and military themes go together perfectly and logically, this is undoubtedly the weirdest model. Other dial color options include brown reference 2CVBC.C01A, dark gray 2CVBC.B15A and blue 2CVBC.U02A. For style, each watch comes with a matching blue leather strap.
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Despite the visually large proportions of the watch, the 44mm wide case is very comfortable to wear – especially the strap. The complex array of chronograph buttons on the left side of the case extends up your arm rather than your hand (assuming you wear the watch on your left hand), and the dial is clear and easy to read. The closer you look at this watch, you'll notice that it's influenced by Graham's Chronofighter Vintage collection, giving it a mildly retro feel visually compared to the more modern-looking Graham watches. At 47mm wide, the previous model was too large and uncomfortable to wear on the wrist. I have to admit, the 44mm wide case and wraparound curved lugs make for an impressively comfortable fit.